Harbor porpoises as seen from the Golden Gate Bridge. (Photo: William Keener/Golden Gate Cetacean Research)

Harbor porpoises haven't been seen in San Francisco Bay for more than 60 years. But now, they're coming back through the Golden Gate in growing numbers and researchers are trying to understand why they’re returning.

The best place to look for them is 220 feet above the water on the pedestrian walkway across the Golden Gate Bridge. That's where Bill Keener of Golden Gate Cetacean Research photographs them, holding a massive telephoto lens over the side of the railing.

"There's a porpoise right there, coming very, very close," he says pointing. A dark shape appears in the water. It's a harbor porpoise, coming up for air. "And here's a mother and calf coming straight at us."

The porpoises have dark gray backs and pale bellies. They're about five feet long, smaller than most of their dolphin relatives.

"Look at that! That one's on its side," Keener says. "The porpoise turned on its side. It's spinning and it's feeding."

Porpoises spin as they go after schools of herring and anchovies, which means these porpoises are feeding in the middle of a heavily-trafficked shipping lane. "The porpoises have found a way to not only avoid the ships, but it's also the noise they make," says Keener.

Studying a Shy Marine Mammal

Seeing this behavior is huge for Keener. Harbor porpoises are notoriously shy in the open ocean, so they're tough for researchers to study. Here in the bay, Keener and his colleagues have identified 250 individual porpoises with their photos by looking for unique scars and color patterns on the animals.

Porpoise mating display as seen from the bridge. (Photo: William Keener/Golden Gate Cetacean Research)

When these researchers first started their work on the bridge, they caused a bit of a stir. "You noticed there was a Golden Gate Bridge patrol officer here just a few minutes ago," says Keener. "Well, we're staring down at the water for hours. They'd start getting worried about us. But they know us now. They know what we're doing."

Of course, the big question is why harbor porpoises disappeared in the first place. Keener says the bay has historically been porpoise habitat. Their bones have been found from hundreds of years ago.

"And then there were reports in the 1930s. And then we don't really have reports from around World War II. And there were a lot of things going on during World War II that could have caused that."

San Francisco Bay became a wartime port and a major ship-building center. The Navy strung a seven-mile-long net underwater across the opening of the bay to keep out Japanese submarines. Hundreds of mines were planted in the waters outside the Golden Gate.

Keener says all that activity certainly would have disturbed the porpoises. But there's a bigger change that may have driven them away.

The Changing Bay

To see it, we head toward the Golden Gate Bridge on a twenty-two foot boat with Jonathan Stern, a whale researcher at San Francisco State University. Stern was the first person to spot the porpoises in the bay three years ago.

"I just couldn't figure out what they were doing here. It's like when you see somebody you're used to seeing at work and you see them somewhere, in Hawaii or something. What are you doing here? You're out of place," says Stern.

The bay we're gliding over today is a far cry from the bay in the 1950s and 60s. As the Bay Area boomed, so did water pollution. Keener says raw sewage used to flow right into the bay. "I remember coming across the Bay Bridge when I was very young and it would just smell. It would stink."

After the Clean Water Act was passed in 1972, the bay's water quality began to improve. But Stern says it took time for the food web to come back. "It takes the biology a while to track the chemistry. So it's not surprising that it's taken years for this ecosystem to generate like this."

Stern says it's also possible that the porpoises had to rediscover the bay. "Because over 60 years, we're talking about a number of generations of porpoises. So it's quite likely that San Francisco Bay as a location, as a habitat was out of the institutional memory of the harbor porpoises off the coast here."

Bill Keener and Jonathan Stern search for porpoises in the bay.

As we slow down under the bridge's span, Keener keeps an eye out. "There are porpoises between us and the south tower at 200 yards," he says.

Keener and Stern have a special permit that allows them to approach the porpoises. We wait, listening for them to surface.

"I just heard one here. Here's a cow-calf pair close to the boat and we'll hear this puff," Keener says.

We hear two loud puffs as the porpoises surface just off the bow. "The old time sailors used to call them puffing pigs. That's the exhalation," says Keener.

The harbor porpoises seem calm around boats in the bay, which Stern says will let researchers study their life cycle and social structure, as well as how they might react to big events like the upcoming America's Cup race. Overall, he says it's a good sign that the porpoises are here.

"It's one of those very few good news environmental stories. And it's in our backyard. You know, there was the will to get the bay cleaner and we're now starting to see the effects of that. It gives one hope."

I first became aware of Mike Forsberg’s work Great Plains: America’s Lingering Wild two years ago when I was asked to introduce him and his slideshow presentation of images from his book at our local Audubon preserve where I was board chairman.

Over the next year and a half, I traveled through ten states following Mike with a video production crew to some of the most remote, endangered and stimulating environments to produce the PBS documentary, Great Plains: America’s Lingering Wild. Today’s wildlife photographer has to be proficient with all sorts of new technology — such as walkie-talkie triggered cameras and infrared camera traps — that didn’t even exist just a few years ago in order to create striking images that can compete for the shrinking print market. To illustrate this, there is a scene in producer Gary Hochman’s Your Photos on QUEST: Great Plains Photographer story where you see Mike setting up a camera trap in the Black Hills of South Dakota. A month later, Mike returned to the scene and retrieved the digital photos stored on his camera, captured when the mountain lion and deer shown in the story set off the traps.

When most of us think about the Great Plains, we think of very long, flat and boring stretches of interstate highway – endless concrete slabs running east to west. Or we think about flying over the patchwork quilt of vast stretches of irrigated corn, wheat and milo fields or cross-fenced prairie cattle country dotted by windmills, stock tanks and two-track jeep roads that look like ant tracks from above.

A lone bull bison in Wind Cave National Park, South Dakota Credit: Mike Forsberg

But to Mike Forsberg and the scientists, land-owners, conservationists and educators who helped him achieve his goal of publishing striking images and words about the last remnants of the wild and untamed prairie, there is much more to and much more at stake in the Great Plains.

Hidden away in remote, nearly inaccessible places are remarkable creatures most of us will never see or even know exist: black-footed ferrets emerging from their underground dens at dawn; a million Mexican free-tailed bats exiting a gypsum cave at dusk; nesting willets in the vast pot-holed Missouri Coteau region; prairie grizzlies and mountain lions caught at night in Mike’s ingenious camera traps.

Mountain lion walking through camera trap, Black Hills, South Dakota Credit: Mike Forsberg

And for each of the species Mike captures with digital photography, there are also the people who have dedicated their lives to caring for and about them. We met Jill Morrison and her husband Dave Clarendon who have spent the past three decades fighting to keep the not-so-habitat-friendly coal-bed methane wells off their ranch near Sheridan, Wyoming. Jill and Dave have seen the water quality decline and the wildlife that supported a secondary outfitting and guided hunting business retreat much higher into the mountains.

We spent a night from dusk to dawn with Travis Livieri four-wheeling around a massive prairie dog town in the Conata Basin near Badlands National Park in South Dakota trying to capture and inoculate the elusive black-footed ferret. Ferrets, who prey on prairie dogs, were thought to be extinct until a rancher’s dog brought in a dead one a few decades ago, setting off a massive effort to live trap the few remaining individuals. After a few failed tries, a captive breeding program finally resulted in success. Travis, then a graduate biology student, was on the first team that reintroduced the ferrets to their natural habitat.

Mike Forsberg is enormously dedicated to his self-imposed task of photographing everything of meaning and consequence in the remaining natural world of the Great Plains. He hears birds when no one else does and knows them by their call. He has remarkable distance vision. He clambers up steep hills like a mountain goat with a load of photo gear. He dresses in camouflage and blends in with his surroundings, keeping still for hours at a stretch.

What I learned from this experience of a lifetime is that “the lingering wild” is as much a part of Mike Forsberg as it is a part of this rare, beautiful landscape that has once more come into stunning focus for me.

View A Portrait Of The Plains in a larger map

A documentary team led by NET Television producer Mike Farrell and photographer Mike Forsberg spent over a year exploring the vast landscape of the Great Plains, meeting people and exploring problems that are having an impact on the area. What they found was both hopeful and troubling. These are just a few of the things they found on their journey, which will eventually become the PBS documentary Great Plains: America's Lingering Wild.

A northern spotted owl in Marin County. Credit: National Park Service.

Spotted owls are one of the most iconic threatened species in the West. But despite two decades of work to bring them back, their numbers are still declining. That may be due in part to a new threat – not from humans, but from other owls.

You might picture spotted owls in a mossy Pacific Northwest forest – but they actually live right here in the Bay Area.

In a forest near Muir Woods, Bill Merkle, a National Park Service ecologist, plays a recorded northern spotted owl call. He's standing where a pair of owls had a nest last year.

"I think they're just probably 50 or 60 feet up there…" says Merkle. After a moment, he hears a faint call. Merkle runs up a steep slope that's covered in brush and poison oak. In the branches above his, he sees two spotted owls.

Listen to the QUEST radio story Spotted Owls Face New Threat

"So this would definitely be a pair. They're hanging out together," says Merkle.

Northern spotted owls aren't very big. They're a brown owl with white spots that's found from Washington state down to the Bay Area. They've also had the starring role in a decades-long battle between loggers and wildlife groups over their habitat. In many logging towns in the early 1990s, this owl was public enemy number one.

Merkle says in all, about 80 pairs of spotted owls are found on national park land in Marin County – and for 15 years, the park service has monitored the health of that population.

But recently, Merkle says they've been hearing a new owl call in the forests – a barred owl call.

Arrival of the Barred Owl

"The call often described as ‘who cooks for you?" says David Press, another ecologist with National Park Service. He's joining Merkle near Muir Woods to look for the owl that makes that call – the barred owl.

"You see anything?" says Merkle. They peer into a hollow cavity high in a tree – a cavity that used to be a spotted owl nest.

"Just at the base of it you can see a little bit of that barred owl," says Merkle. It's a female barred owl, sitting on her eggs. Merkle looks concerned.

"It's a troubling picture for the spotted owls," he says.

Barred owls are an invasive species, originally from the Eastern US. They first arrived in spotted owl territory in Washington and have been moving south down the coast – which makes this owl the frontline of the invasion.

"The barred owl is a little larger. It's a little more aggressive. And so in other areas where you have barred owls set up, the spotted owls aren't there anymore," says Merkle.

Barred owls take over spotted owl territory and in some cases, even attack them. In places like western Washington, the spotted owl population has been cut in half since the barred owl showed up.

David Press says he's already seeing a change in Marin. "Since the barred owls moved into the area, we've had a harder and harder time detecting spotted owls where they have been historically."

"The barred owls are really sort of adding insult to injury," says Paul Henson of the US Fish and Wildlife Service, the agency overseeing spotted owl recovery.

"The injury for the spotted owl was 100 years of habitat loss, and the sort of insult, the more recent insult, is barred owls have now shown up and are really out-competing spotted owls."

New Study to Remove Barred Owls

The Fish and Wildlife Service hopes to deal with the issue in a new plan expected to be released in a few weeks. It includes a barred owl study that's… raising a few eyebrows.

"We identified the need to do a focused study where we could test the response of spotted owl populations to the removal of barred owls," says Robin Bown, a biologist with Fish and Wildlife.

Which means…

"Well, basically it means permanent removal. We're going to look at all potential opportunities but the most humane way to do it is to shoot them. A shotgun removal is extremely quick, it's almost instantaneous."

Bown says they plan to eliminate barred owls from a few study plots to see if the spotted owls there do better. They also want to see if it's even feasible to remove barred owls by shooting them.

And yes, Bown says this is an idea that's not easy to consider. "Oh it's a very difficult thing. Even for those of us involved in this, it's a very difficult concept to say I'm going to kill one species to try to save another species. But it's also something that in some cases we need to do."

Back in Muir Woods, Bill Merkle says a lot of people are waiting on the results of the study to see what's next.

Budget cuts are also an issue. Just as more barred owls are arriving, Merkle says the park service's owl monitoring program has been cut.

"Now the situation is getting a lot more challenging just when I think the threats are getting more apparent with the barred owls. We know climate change is going to change things out here. It is a difficult time to be cutting off our monitoring."

If approved, the barred owl removal program would begin next year.

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Mountain lion. Photo: California Department of Fish and Game.

But after a bit of research, I learned that tranquilization is never an option in situations like this—it takes up to 30 minutes for the tranquilizer to take effect, during which time the situation could turn much worse. Wardens with the California Department of Fish and Game don’t even carry tranquilizers; Berkeley Police sure don’t carry tranquilizers, either. And, Fish and Game does not relocate wild animals that display this kind of bold behavior, because they’re still too much of a threat. These policies make sense—and so does a mountain lion walking in streets of Berkeley, when you really think about it.

Over 50% of California is mountain lion habitat. Mountain lions can be found wherever there are deer, their main prey item. As we humans have built houses and highways, we’ve broken up the mountain lions’ habitat into fragmented patches. To move between patches of habitat, mountain lions have to cross our streets and highways. Mountain lions are territorial, and their territories tend not to overlap; these animals need a lot of space.

My friend Chris Wilmers, a professor at UC Santa Cruz, studies mountain lion movement and behavior. He catches mountain lions and fits them with GPS-accelerometer collars, which record their every movement. He’s learning how the lions move through the landscape. You can learn more about his research, and the Bay Area Puma Project, in QUEST’s Tracking Urban Lions. Chris’s research will show us which areas the mountain lions are using, and how we can connect these habitat fragments, so mountain lions can move safely from patch to patch.

Last week, the plight of urban lions came close to home—or rather, close to work. I work at the Lawrence Hall of Science, in the hills above the UC Berkeley campus. I found out, via email, that three mountain lions, probably a mother and two juveniles, have been seen several times near the Lawrence Berkeley Lab, just down the slope from where I work. And, two dead deer and one dead goat found near the Lab’s buildings strongly suggest that the lions aren’t just taking an evening stroll.

Clearly, we coexist with mountain lions. Our habitat is their habitat. But there are things we can do to prevent encounters; fill your garden with plants that deer find distasteful, so mountain lions won’t be tempted to stalk their prey in your backyard. (See A Gardener’s Guide to Preventing Deer Damage.) Don’t leave food outside for pets. Don’t leave pets outside, or run or bike alone, at dawn, dusk, or nighttime, when mountain lions hunt. And, if you do encounter a mountain lion, stand tall, make noise, and fight back. Find more info here.

Until Chris figures out where we should build wildlife corridors, I’ll be sure not to walk alone from my office to my car during darkling hours; one more reason not to work late!

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Pepin is famous for going to work after just 9 weeks of training, finding 52 scats in a single day.

This candidate must:

• Follow orders
• Be rough, energetic and adventurous
• Travel around the world
• Find things that are nearly impossible to see
• Be willing to ride in the back of a truck and wear a collar
• Run long distances
• Be a fast learner
• Be obsessed with toys
• Be willing to sniff poop
• Get compensated in rope-tugging with benefits such as scratches and belly rubs
• Come from a background of animal shelter living

Yes, the only qualified species is: Dog.

The Job: Working Dog for Conservation.

I saw these dogs in action at the Wildlife Conservation Network (WCN) Expo in San Francisco in October. The organization, Working Dogs for Conservation and their dog demo with Pepin took center stage during lunch. While Pepin was inside the building schmoozing with the likes of Dr. Jane Goodall, her trainers hid scat in a giant, wide open field area. Once the crowd gathered, Pepin was taken outside, given directions and once released, blasted with determination and blatant glee out into the field. Within 3 minutes she had located the scat and sat proudly next to it, indicating to her trainer that she had done her job; a job that would have taken a human hours.

Being able to find scat helps humans track down various species in the wild and provides needed species conservation information. Deployed conservation dogs have increased scat sample collection rates and have discovered samples that are smaller and more cryptic than people alone are capable of detecting. The working dogs for conservation have found scat of moose, snow leopard, grizzly bear, wolf and cougar, to name a few. The dogs have also been trained to find plants and lost pets and people.

Partnering with dogs is nothing new. Humans have been using the 220 million scent-sensitive cells available for canine olfaction for centuries. These animals are truly man's best friend, but perhaps they are becoming nature's best friend, as well. They certainly deserve to hold this most unusual job.

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The noise of all these nesting and breeding birds is almost overwhelming (check out the slideshow below for a firsthand look), but these birds speak for a lot more than themselves. Our guides, PRBO Conservation Science, have been studying these birds for 40 years. As Biologist Russell Bradley explained, these seabirds are environmental samplers. In order to raise their chicks, they depend on the food web that blooms in the spring when coastal upwelling brings nutrient-rich water to the surface. If that is disrupted or delayed, the first place scientists will see it is in these bird populations, who will either have poor or non-existent breeding seasons.

Those changes in the upwelling patterns can be due to natural variability in the system. But increasing, scientists are asking whether the changes are due to climate change. That's not an easy question to answer. There are a lot of different factors in the mix.

I spoke with Zack Powell, a professor at UC Berkeley who studies climate and upwelling, and he said it all comes down to the timing of natural cycles. First, there's El Nino – where warm water spreads across the equator and heads up the California coast. That can happen every two to seven years and when it does, it acts a barrier to upwelling, interfering with the marine food web. Scientists recently confirmed that El Nino will return this year.

Looking at changes on a longer time frame, there's the Pacific Decadal Oscillation. It's a pattern of ocean warming and cooling that can last 30 years. Powell says it can also have an effect on marine life and fisheries.

And finally, there's climate change, which comparably may cause changes on the longest time frame. Powell says there's about 100 years of historical data about the ocean conditions off the California coast and it's not much when looking at such long-lived patterns. Powell and others work on climate modeling to help answer these questions. Some of the models show that the seasonal winds may become stronger, meaning upwelling patterns could be altered. And ocean temperatures could rise significantly, changing the way warmer surface water and nutrient-rich deep water mix.

Powell says right now his focus is the granularity of the climate models. They simply can't predict changes on a small geographic scale. "For most models, the smallest footprint is about 100km and all the upwelling takes place closer to shore than that." But he's hoping there will be drastic improvements over the next few years. And if extreme changes do take place, for whatever reason, the birds will certainly tell us.

Listen to the Journey to the Farallones radio report online, and check out our Farallon Islands Interactive Map for the sights and sounds of the island. Or watch the audio slideshow below for a first-hand look.

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Searching for tadpoles in Arroyo Viejo Creek at the Oakland Zoo.

It Day #2 of Nature Play, a new Oakland Zoo ZooCamp program that I have been assigned to teach. I know all about “Nature Deficit Disorder” and “No Child Left Inside”. I have read “Last Child in the Woods” and even blogged about the issues, but now I find myself out in nature with 12 curious and excited children, and I have no idea what will happen.

Nature Play was created in response to childrens’ desire to experience true nature – to look up at trees, observe tadpoles and connect with wildlife in their own backyard. The idea behind Nature Play is to offer the campers supervised and loosely facilitated exploration outdoors that is self directed.

Parents were so game to give these simple pleasures to their children, this program sold out.

Now, here we are. Our afternoon agenda is creek time and fort building. It is a beautiful afternoon at Arroyo Viejo Creek, a small tributary that runs through the zoo grounds. Though there are tigers, lions and elephants close by, this is where the campers are most excited to be. I have given minimal direction: look, listen, smell and feel, and record something in your nature journal. They have nets, jars, binoculars and wildlife guides, and one hour.

Immediately the group swarms to their favorite spot that they discovered yesterday. It is near one of the outdoor classrooms and features a giant, ground-leaning willow tree to crawl under, two logs that rest across the creek to climb over and water loaded with tadpoles and water gliders. I watch and listen myself.

“There are 1000 water striders here! They are riding on top of each other.” “No, that is a shadow”. “I am crossing the log by scootching” “I will help you”. “I found a secret trail!” “I am putting this leaf in my journal”. “I can write with a rock.” “I heard a frog!” I am a frog!” “The sun makes me silly and happy.” “I see tadpoles!” “Let’s call this place Willow Cove.” “I don’t want to go home.”

A few things amazed me about this hour. One, they were never bored. They went on and on with their play and exploration in this small area with gusto the entire time. They were imaginative, inventive and stimulated. Two, they learned. They learned that frogs are quiet when they are noisy. They learned that they could balance better holding their arms out. They did not need my fascinating animal facts to gain knowledge. Three, they truly and intuitively cared about the habitat. They picked up a couple of pieces of garbage, told each other not to handle amphibians and put rocks back where they found them without being told. Four, and most interestingly, they got along fantastically. Earlier in the day there were a few squabbles over this or that, but out here, they helped each other, supported each other and shared the nets like pros. They seemed to be at peace.

A little later at Fort Building, the group divided into two as they followed two natural leaders and their fort visions. As we debriefed about the two forts, they came to the conclusion (themselves) that tomorrow they should build one fort with all the materials, then sit in it and tell stories about animals.

I saw it all with my own eyes. This nature stuff works. Now this explorer is going to sleep. I am exhausted!

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A pure beauty — your friendly Cathartes aura. a.k.a Turkey Vulture

When most people hear vulture, they think of a big ugly bird found in the desert, waiting for something to die, circling, circling… In reality, the Turkey Vulture is a local species, and is one of the more common birds we see soaring the skies of the Bay Area.

While we interviewed Dawn Manning about the Turkey Vulture, there were quite a few "colorful" facts we learned: The Turkey Vulture has no vocal organs – they can only grunt or hiss, although they usually stay silent. They do not build nests – they lay their eggs directly on the ground in caves, crevices, burrows, hollow logs, under fallen trees, or even in abandoned buildings. While they have few natural predators, their main form of defense is vomiting. The foul smelling substance deters most creatures, and will also sting if the offending animal is close enough to get it on them.

Luckily, this pretty lady didn’t seem to mind the camera and all the people; I might even go as far as saying she enjoyed the attention. You never know… yesterday, a wildlife ambassador; today, a star on QUEST; tomorrow, a Hollywood superstar??

Take a visit to the Lindsay Wildlife Museum in Walnut Creek, and say hello to the Turkey Vulture – some day you might be able to say, "I knew her when…!"

Watch "Cool Critters: Turkey Vultures" online.

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The Farallones consist of a group of rocky islands that are 28 miles North of San Francisco Bay.

The Northern Farallones were originally granted protection by President Teddy Roosevelt in 1909. However, these islands were not always protected. Human consumption decimated many populations, some never to return. The demand for fur, oil and meat devastated the elephant and fur seal population. By 1900, the robust Common Murre population dwindled down to a few thousand because of the demand for Murre eggs.

Today, the Islands are further protected under the Marine Life Protection Act and the Farallones are also deemed a state marine conservation area. The majority of visitors of the human persuasion are not allowed access to the islands as they would upset the balance of the largest seabird breeding colony in the United States. Those humans that do frequent the island include wildlife biologists and land managers who are conducting wildlife research.

PRBO Conversation Science has been a local on the island day and night conducting research and monitoring the natives. The webcam helps their cause by collecting scientific data from a remote location. The camera enables biologists to observe without disturbing wildlife or incurring adverse environmental impact.

The water surrounding the islands makes this an ideal stomping ground for marine life and seabirds alike. Coastal upwelling takes place in the spring around the islands. The Coriolis Effect along the coast drives surface waters away from the coast; this water is then replaced with the denser waters from below. Within the deeper waters is a wealth of nutrients that are photosynthesized into dense blooms of plant plankton when exposed to the sun. This energizes the marine food chain as the plant plankton is eaten by krill. Krill is then made available to eat for fish, birds, and marine mammals. It does not only feed surrounding wildlife but growing human populations as well. The most productive fisheries in the world are supported by coastal upwelling. Given the location and the diversity of wildlife, the Farallones is well worth protecting.

The webcam not only aids research; it assuages curiosity. Anyone can pilot the camera. A panoramic view of the island is set up for the user to navigate and explore. Field guides and information on the project are also given on the site to reference observations.

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Lions and humans are in conflict in the wild parks of Uganda

Last October, I gazed out at the expanse of Queen Elizabeth Park, in Uganda, close to the comfy Mweya Safari Lodge where we were staying. The landscape was beautiful, peaceful…and kind of empty. Though we had seen a large and lovely herd of elephants the evening before, on this fine, clear morning, the habitat was clearly missing one of the most important parts of the eco-system: predators. All we could find were tracks.

We gazed down at the enormous cat foot prints, still clearly cut into the mud, and looked to Dr. Ludwig Siefert, a Makerere University lecturer, lion ecologist and our guide for the day. He explained the situation to us: The footprints belonged to a lovely female lioness who was clearly recently here, and tragically was no longer. This lioness, like many other predators in the area, had met a painful death by poison.

Later that day, we came across 3 juvenile lions, scruffy and likely to be hungry; they had lost their chief bread winner.

Our night drive also proved surprisingly empty. Dr. Siefert and his team sent hyena calls into the starry night, only to receive a quiet response. Eventually we saw four hyenas. Great news, except that our teen trip in July had observed thirty of them. It seemed likely that many hyenas were killed in the three months that had passed since then. This is not what we expected when we came to Uganda.

But we could guess what had happened to all these predators. Local Basongora herdsmen, or pastoralists, choose to graze their cattle inside the park, although they have access to lush pasture outside the park. The lions, searching for food, find cattle grazing in their habitat and naturally do what a lion does: have lunch. The Basongora solution for lions, leopards and hyenas that prey on their livelihood: put poison on carcasses and leave them as bait. The poison often includes furadan, an agro-chemical which causes a painful and not so quick death.

Death of magnificent predators is not the only issue with the practice. Eventually the hotels, restaurants and tour companies will face a loss of tourists.

The planet faces many cases of human-wildlife conflict, especially as the human population grows, habitats shrink and humans and animals are forced to live even closer to each other. Yet there are quite a few inspiring examples of solutions that honor the fact that all parties, human and non-human, must be granted health, space and means to eat. Other African countries are finding solutions to similar problems. When all parties work together, there are indeed solutions.

It is our hope that the ecologists, pastoralists, park rangers and predators find one in Queen Elizabeth Park. We sure would like to return.

To contact Dr. Siefert and support his work: lion@vetmed.mak.ac.ug.

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