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But the growing market for this complex, subtle wine could soon run up against climate conditions that make it increasingly difficult to grow top-quality wines in the state, especially ones that do best in cool climates, like Pinot Noir.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73658\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2007/07/Andrew-Walker_UC-Davis_02_6-26-07_resized.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-73658\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2007/07/Andrew-Walker_UC-Davis_02_6-26-07_resized-300x169.jpg\" alt=\"“Pinot Noir is being grown in hot areas of California where it doesn’t grow so well,” said Andrew Walker, professor of viticulture at the University of California, Davis. He examines a Listán Prieto vine on the UC Davis campus. This wine grape was brought to California by Spaniards and was the first to be planted in the state. (Photo by Joan Johnson Miller/KQED, 2007).\" width=\"300\" height=\"169\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">“Pinot Noir is being grown in hot areas of California where it doesn’t grow so well,” said Andrew Walker, professor of viticulture at the University of California, Davis. He examines a Listán Prieto vine on the UC Davis campus. This wine grape was brought to California by Spaniards and was the first to be planted in the state. (Photo by Joan Johnson Miller/KQED, 2007).\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It just goes to show, scientists say, that which wines become popular has more to do with personal taste and marketing than with warming temperatures and water availability.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Pinot Noir is being grown in hot areas of California where it doesn’t grow so well,” said Andrew Walker, a professor of viticulture at the University of California, Davis. “The public wants it, and so we’re making it, even if it’s not that great.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nearly 260,000 tons of Pinot Noir grapes were crushed in California in 2013. That’s four times the 58,000 tons crushed in 2003, according to the California Department of Food and Agriculture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In recent years, Pinot Noir has been extensively planted in coastal Sonoma County, where the grapes produce top-quality wines. But the grape has also spread to warmer parts of California. In 2013, some 23,000 tons of Pinot Noir were crushed in the hot Central Valley, in the area between Madera and Kern counties.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinot Noir is a particularly finicky grape, said David Graves, the co-owner of Saintsbury Winery, in Napa Valley’s Carneros region, which produces renowned Pinot Noir wines. The marine fog that enters San Francisco Bay blankets Carneros and makes it an ideal place to grow good Pinot Noir.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73657\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2007/07/David_Graves_Saintsbury_winery_2007_resized.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-73657\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2007/07/David_Graves_Saintsbury_winery_2007_resized-300x169.jpg\" alt=\"David Graves, co-owner of Saintsbury Winery, in the Carneros region of the Napa Valley, an area known for the quality of its Pinot Noir wines. Graves stands next to a weather station that monitors conditions in his vineyards. (Photo by Joan Johnson Miller/KQED, 2007).\" width=\"300\" height=\"169\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">David Graves, co-owner of Saintsbury Winery, in the Carneros region of the Napa Valley, an area known for the quality of its Pinot Noir wines. Graves stands next to a weather station that monitors conditions in his vineyards. (Photo by Joan Johnson Miller/KQED, 2007).\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“It doesn’t flourish in a lot of climates. It’s not a very forgiving grape,” said Graves. “It tends to like cooler spots.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scientists at Stanford, Purdue, Utah State University and two other research institutes estimate that by 2040 global warming is likely to \u003ca href=\"http://iopscience.iop.org/1748-9326/6/2/024024/fulltext/\">cut in half the area in Napa and Sonoma valleys\u003c/a> where temperatures are suitable to grow top-quality wine grapes. To come up with their calculations, researchers estimated that global temperature would climb one degree Celsius (about two degrees Fahrenheit), which is on the lower end of global warming estimates, said Stanford’s Noah Diffenbaugh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Temperatures above 95 degrees Fahrenheit, for long periods of time, can hurt wine quality. To produce good wines, grapes need heat, but it has to be followed by a cooling-off period. Heat produces the sugars that will become alcohol, while cooling slows this process long enough for the compounds that produce the flavors in wine to develop. Temperatures above 95 degrees, without subsequent cooling, degrade compounds called anthocyanins, which give red wines their deep color and contribute to their complex flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73659\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2007/07/Pinot_Noir_Saintsbury_winery_2007_resized.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-73659\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2007/07/Pinot_Noir_Saintsbury_winery_2007_resized-300x169.jpg\" alt=\"Pinot Noir is a variety that does well in cool climates and is particularly vulnerable to warming temperatures. These vines were planted at Saintsbury Winery, in Napa Valley. (Photo by Joan Johnson Miller/KQED, 2007).\" width=\"300\" height=\"169\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pinot Noir is a variety that does well in cool climates and is particularly vulnerable to warming temperatures. These vines were planted at Saintsbury Winery, in Napa Valley. (Photo by Joan Johnson Miller/KQED, 2007).\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The boom in Pinot Noir is part of the consolidation of a handful of well-known, popular wines in the state – Chardonnay, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel. Scientists say that more effort should be put into testing wine varieties new to California that might do well as temperatures climb.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“In a warming climate we need more diversity,” said Walker.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the world’s largest wine and beer companies, Constellation Brands, is collaborating with UC Davis on research into warm-climate varieties. They’re testing grapes like Petite Sirah and Petit Verdot, which are somewhat known in California already, and some more obscure varieties like white wine grapes Fiano and Petit Manseng, said UC Davis’ Matthew Fidelibus, in charge of the trials at the university’s Kearney Agricultural Research and Extension Center, in Parlier.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But whether or not wines made from these grapes catch on depends not just on whether researchers can produce good-quality grapes and abundant yields. Marketing and economics are key, said Walker. And for now, wines like Pinot Noir, which are fetching a good price for growers and are popular at the store, reign supreme, climate predictions aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This video, originally posted on July 31, 2007, was updated on Jan. 6, 2015.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>More from QUEST:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/science/2014/12/30/warm-temps-mean-less-snow-for-the-sierra/\">Warm Temps Mean Less Snow for the Sierra\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/science/2014/12/08/californias-drought-is-it-global-warming/\">California’s Drought: Is it Global Warming?\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"California’s Napa Valley has a microclimate that produces world-famous wines, but what happens as the climate warms up? Vintners are using advanced technology to conserve water, while scientists are testing varieties that could replace the cool-climate Pinot Noirs of today.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1442621447,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":17,"wordCount":872},"headData":{"title":"Napa Wineries Face Global Warming | KQED","description":"","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Napa Wineries Face Global Warming","datePublished":"2015-01-06T15:00:00.000Z","dateModified":"2015-09-19T00:10:47.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"17385 http://science.kqed.org/quest/video/napa-wineries-face-global-warming/","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/quest/2015/01/06/napa-wineries-face-global-warming/","disqusTitle":"Napa Wineries Face Global Warming","videoEmbed":"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b_ARdxOdTS0?feature=player_detailpage","source":"Environment","sourceUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/quest/category/environment/","path":"/quest/17385/napa-wineries-face-global-warming","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>As revelers uncorked wine bottles to celebrate the holidays and ring in the New Year, more of them were celebrating with a glass of California-grown Pinot Noir than a decade ago. But the growing market for this complex, subtle wine could soon run up against climate conditions that make it increasingly difficult to grow top-quality wines in the state, especially ones that do best in cool climates, like Pinot Noir.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73658\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2007/07/Andrew-Walker_UC-Davis_02_6-26-07_resized.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-73658\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2007/07/Andrew-Walker_UC-Davis_02_6-26-07_resized-300x169.jpg\" alt=\"“Pinot Noir is being grown in hot areas of California where it doesn’t grow so well,” said Andrew Walker, professor of viticulture at the University of California, Davis. He examines a Listán Prieto vine on the UC Davis campus. This wine grape was brought to California by Spaniards and was the first to be planted in the state. (Photo by Joan Johnson Miller/KQED, 2007).\" width=\"300\" height=\"169\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">“Pinot Noir is being grown in hot areas of California where it doesn’t grow so well,” said Andrew Walker, professor of viticulture at the University of California, Davis. He examines a Listán Prieto vine on the UC Davis campus. This wine grape was brought to California by Spaniards and was the first to be planted in the state. (Photo by Joan Johnson Miller/KQED, 2007).\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It just goes to show, scientists say, that which wines become popular has more to do with personal taste and marketing than with warming temperatures and water availability.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Pinot Noir is being grown in hot areas of California where it doesn’t grow so well,” said Andrew Walker, a professor of viticulture at the University of California, Davis. “The public wants it, and so we’re making it, even if it’s not that great.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nearly 260,000 tons of Pinot Noir grapes were crushed in California in 2013. That’s four times the 58,000 tons crushed in 2003, according to the California Department of Food and Agriculture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In recent years, Pinot Noir has been extensively planted in coastal Sonoma County, where the grapes produce top-quality wines. But the grape has also spread to warmer parts of California. In 2013, some 23,000 tons of Pinot Noir were crushed in the hot Central Valley, in the area between Madera and Kern counties.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinot Noir is a particularly finicky grape, said David Graves, the co-owner of Saintsbury Winery, in Napa Valley’s Carneros region, which produces renowned Pinot Noir wines. The marine fog that enters San Francisco Bay blankets Carneros and makes it an ideal place to grow good Pinot Noir.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73657\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2007/07/David_Graves_Saintsbury_winery_2007_resized.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-73657\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2007/07/David_Graves_Saintsbury_winery_2007_resized-300x169.jpg\" alt=\"David Graves, co-owner of Saintsbury Winery, in the Carneros region of the Napa Valley, an area known for the quality of its Pinot Noir wines. Graves stands next to a weather station that monitors conditions in his vineyards. (Photo by Joan Johnson Miller/KQED, 2007).\" width=\"300\" height=\"169\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">David Graves, co-owner of Saintsbury Winery, in the Carneros region of the Napa Valley, an area known for the quality of its Pinot Noir wines. Graves stands next to a weather station that monitors conditions in his vineyards. (Photo by Joan Johnson Miller/KQED, 2007).\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“It doesn’t flourish in a lot of climates. It’s not a very forgiving grape,” said Graves. “It tends to like cooler spots.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scientists at Stanford, Purdue, Utah State University and two other research institutes estimate that by 2040 global warming is likely to \u003ca href=\"http://iopscience.iop.org/1748-9326/6/2/024024/fulltext/\">cut in half the area in Napa and Sonoma valleys\u003c/a> where temperatures are suitable to grow top-quality wine grapes. To come up with their calculations, researchers estimated that global temperature would climb one degree Celsius (about two degrees Fahrenheit), which is on the lower end of global warming estimates, said Stanford’s Noah Diffenbaugh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Temperatures above 95 degrees Fahrenheit, for long periods of time, can hurt wine quality. To produce good wines, grapes need heat, but it has to be followed by a cooling-off period. Heat produces the sugars that will become alcohol, while cooling slows this process long enough for the compounds that produce the flavors in wine to develop. Temperatures above 95 degrees, without subsequent cooling, degrade compounds called anthocyanins, which give red wines their deep color and contribute to their complex flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73659\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2007/07/Pinot_Noir_Saintsbury_winery_2007_resized.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-73659\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2007/07/Pinot_Noir_Saintsbury_winery_2007_resized-300x169.jpg\" alt=\"Pinot Noir is a variety that does well in cool climates and is particularly vulnerable to warming temperatures. These vines were planted at Saintsbury Winery, in Napa Valley. (Photo by Joan Johnson Miller/KQED, 2007).\" width=\"300\" height=\"169\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pinot Noir is a variety that does well in cool climates and is particularly vulnerable to warming temperatures. These vines were planted at Saintsbury Winery, in Napa Valley. (Photo by Joan Johnson Miller/KQED, 2007).\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The boom in Pinot Noir is part of the consolidation of a handful of well-known, popular wines in the state – Chardonnay, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel. Scientists say that more effort should be put into testing wine varieties new to California that might do well as temperatures climb.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“In a warming climate we need more diversity,” said Walker.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the world’s largest wine and beer companies, Constellation Brands, is collaborating with UC Davis on research into warm-climate varieties. They’re testing grapes like Petite Sirah and Petit Verdot, which are somewhat known in California already, and some more obscure varieties like white wine grapes Fiano and Petit Manseng, said UC Davis’ Matthew Fidelibus, in charge of the trials at the university’s Kearney Agricultural Research and Extension Center, in Parlier.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But whether or not wines made from these grapes catch on depends not just on whether researchers can produce good-quality grapes and abundant yields. Marketing and economics are key, said Walker. And for now, wines like Pinot Noir, which are fetching a good price for growers and are popular at the store, reign supreme, climate predictions aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This video, originally posted on July 31, 2007, was updated on Jan. 6, 2015.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>More from QUEST:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/science/2014/12/30/warm-temps-mean-less-snow-for-the-sierra/\">Warm Temps Mean Less Snow for the Sierra\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/science/2014/12/08/californias-drought-is-it-global-warming/\">California’s Drought: Is it Global Warming?\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/quest/17385/napa-wineries-face-global-warming","authors":["6186"],"categories":["quest_6","quest_9","quest_3229"],"tags":["quest_621","quest_12269","quest_1224","quest_10663","quest_9991","quest_13","quest_13112","quest_2893","quest_3071","quest_3171","quest_13113"],"featImg":"quest_73664","label":"source_quest_17385"},"quest_22785":{"type":"posts","id":"quest_22785","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"quest","id":"22785","score":null,"sort":[1346774404000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"heat-is-on-for-california-wines","title":"The Heat is On For California Wines","publishDate":1346774404,"format":"audio","headTitle":"Heat and Harvest | QUEST | KQED Science","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>You've probably heard of the wines that made Napa and Sonoma famous, like Cabernet Sauvignon or Chardonnay. But what about \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Negroamaro\">Negroamaro\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nero_d%27Avola\">Nero d'Avola\u003c/a>?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They're wine grapes that are well-adapted to hotter climates – the kind of conditions that California may be facing as the climate continues to warm. But for wineries that have staked their reputations on certain wines, adapting to climate change could be a tough sell.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Talk to any wine lover in California and they'll tell you how lucky they are to live in such rich wine-producing region. Take the recent meeting of the San Francisco Wine Lovers Group at Toast wine bar in Oakland, where the favorites are California Pinot Noir, Russian River Zinfandel, and Napa Cabernet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, the type of grape – or varietal - is how most of us think about wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That's the big problem,\" says Andy Walker, a grape breeder in \u003ca href=\"http://wineserver.ucdavis.edu/\">Viticulture and Enology\u003c/a> at the University of California-Davis. \"We've spent the last 100 years emphasizing varieties and we've really marketed those names very effectively.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Walker is strolling through UC Davis's test vineyard, where hundreds of different wine grapes from around the world are grown. The vast majority are unknown to consumers, because most wineries focus on only a handful of grapes. \"Chardonnay, cabernet, merlot, pinot noir – those would make up probably a large percentage,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those are all French varieties, mostly suited for cool climates. California is warm by comparison and thanks to climate change, it's expected to get a lot warmer. Extreme heat can be the enemy of good wine. \"It destroys acidity primarily and it changes color and aromatics,\" says Walker.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to \u003ca href=\"http://news.stanford.edu/news/2011/june/wines-global-warming-063011.html\">a recent study\u003c/a> from Stanford University, about two degrees of warming could reduce California's premium wine-growing land by 30 to 50 percent. That could happen as soon as 2040. Water supply is also expected to be an issue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think the interesting thing for me as a breeder is to take advantage of this and say, OK, here's a chance now to change thought and let's actually readapt varieties to California,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_22840\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 253px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2011/08/P1010793.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-22840\" title=\"UC Davis \" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2011/08/P1010793-253x169.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"253\" height=\"169\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Andy Walker walks through UC Davis's test vineyard.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But in many circles, grape breeding is a dirty term, according to Walker.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Viticulture is the most backward form of horticulture that exists. We use these varieties that haven't been changed for decades, for millennia in some cases. And it really doesn't make any sense.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The problem starts in today's vineyards. If you look at rows of Pinot Noir vines, you aren't just looking at the original varietal. You're looking at clones. That's because vines are grown from a branch that's taken off an existing plant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Pinot noir is being propagated year after year after year. This essentially means that grapes have not been having sex very much,\" says Sean Myles , a geneticist at the Nova Scotia Agricultural College.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says breeding is key for other crops, since farmers need seeds to plant every year. Wine grapes miss this opportunity to develop adaptability and disease resistance, since vines don't grow from seeds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That means that we're not allowing the genetic material to be shuffled anymore. That genetic material is now standing still in time. And while the pathogens are evolving, the pinot noir is not,\" says Myles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Andy Walker says there's plenty of genetic diversity out there for breeding, if you wanted to make today's varieties more heat tolerant or drought resistant. But there's a very big problem. Once your breed your pinot noir with something else, you can't call it pinot noir anymore.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The last decision that hardest. Can we market this variety? We know it produces exceptional wine. We know the quality is better. But the next step is can we actually market it,\" says Walker.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's a deal breaker for many vineyards, who think consumers won't buy varieties they don't recognize. Walker says looking ahead to climate change, there are already varieties out there today from Italy and Spain that would do well in a warmer California. \"We could produce Barbera instead, or Negroamaro or Nero d'Avola from southern Italy and we'd be far better ahead.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These lush reds are popular in Italy but not so well known to Californians. Walker says it'll come down to marketing. \"I don't think it's the consumer that's gonna make the shift. They have to be directed.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think it's really a pull from consumers,\" says Nick Dokoozlian, a Vice President at \u003ca href=\"http://gallo.com/\">E & J Gallo Winery\u003c/a>, the largest family-owned winery in the US. \"In most cases, we're responding to consumer demand for a cultivar.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dokoozlian says Gallo has been testing new wine varieties throughout its vineyards and has found some promising grapes. \"The problem is we can't necessarily sell those varieties. Consumers aren't aware of them. The marketing aspect of climate change and the adaptation to climate change, really, the hurdles on the marketing side are much, much more significant.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since vineyards can last up to 30 years, he says switching varieties is a major financial gamble. \"The wine business is an extremely capital intensive business. The financial risk of planting the wrong variety in the wrong place is pretty significant.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, given the temperature and water supply changes projected for California, Dokoozlian sees the market shifting eventually. \"I'm looking forward to having world-class California Nero d'Avola soon.\"\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"You’ve probably heard of the wines that made Napa and Sonoma famous, like Cabernet Sauvignon or Chardonnay. But what about Negroamaro or Nero d’Avola? They’re wine grapes that are well-adapted to hotter temperatures -- the kind of conditions that California may be facing as the climate continues to warm. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1450495858,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":25,"wordCount":934},"headData":{"title":"The Heat is On For California Wines | KQED","description":"","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"The Heat is On For California Wines","datePublished":"2012-09-04T16:00:04.000Z","dateModified":"2015-12-19T03:30:58.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"22785 http://science.kqed.org/quest/audio/heat-is-on-for-california-wines/","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/quest/2012/09/04/heat-is-on-for-california-wines/","disqusTitle":"The Heat is On For California Wines","source":"Climate","sourceUrl":"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/category/climate/","audioUrl":"http://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/quest/2012/09/2012-09-03-quest.mp3","path":"/quest/22785/heat-is-on-for-california-wines","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>You've probably heard of the wines that made Napa and Sonoma famous, like Cabernet Sauvignon or Chardonnay. But what about \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Negroamaro\">Negroamaro\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nero_d%27Avola\">Nero d'Avola\u003c/a>?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They're wine grapes that are well-adapted to hotter climates – the kind of conditions that California may be facing as the climate continues to warm. But for wineries that have staked their reputations on certain wines, adapting to climate change could be a tough sell.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Talk to any wine lover in California and they'll tell you how lucky they are to live in such rich wine-producing region. Take the recent meeting of the San Francisco Wine Lovers Group at Toast wine bar in Oakland, where the favorites are California Pinot Noir, Russian River Zinfandel, and Napa Cabernet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, the type of grape – or varietal - is how most of us think about wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That's the big problem,\" says Andy Walker, a grape breeder in \u003ca href=\"http://wineserver.ucdavis.edu/\">Viticulture and Enology\u003c/a> at the University of California-Davis. \"We've spent the last 100 years emphasizing varieties and we've really marketed those names very effectively.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Walker is strolling through UC Davis's test vineyard, where hundreds of different wine grapes from around the world are grown. The vast majority are unknown to consumers, because most wineries focus on only a handful of grapes. \"Chardonnay, cabernet, merlot, pinot noir – those would make up probably a large percentage,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those are all French varieties, mostly suited for cool climates. California is warm by comparison and thanks to climate change, it's expected to get a lot warmer. Extreme heat can be the enemy of good wine. \"It destroys acidity primarily and it changes color and aromatics,\" says Walker.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to \u003ca href=\"http://news.stanford.edu/news/2011/june/wines-global-warming-063011.html\">a recent study\u003c/a> from Stanford University, about two degrees of warming could reduce California's premium wine-growing land by 30 to 50 percent. That could happen as soon as 2040. Water supply is also expected to be an issue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think the interesting thing for me as a breeder is to take advantage of this and say, OK, here's a chance now to change thought and let's actually readapt varieties to California,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_22840\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 253px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2011/08/P1010793.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-22840\" title=\"UC Davis \" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2011/08/P1010793-253x169.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"253\" height=\"169\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Andy Walker walks through UC Davis's test vineyard.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But in many circles, grape breeding is a dirty term, according to Walker.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Viticulture is the most backward form of horticulture that exists. We use these varieties that haven't been changed for decades, for millennia in some cases. And it really doesn't make any sense.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The problem starts in today's vineyards. If you look at rows of Pinot Noir vines, you aren't just looking at the original varietal. You're looking at clones. That's because vines are grown from a branch that's taken off an existing plant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Pinot noir is being propagated year after year after year. This essentially means that grapes have not been having sex very much,\" says Sean Myles , a geneticist at the Nova Scotia Agricultural College.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says breeding is key for other crops, since farmers need seeds to plant every year. Wine grapes miss this opportunity to develop adaptability and disease resistance, since vines don't grow from seeds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That means that we're not allowing the genetic material to be shuffled anymore. That genetic material is now standing still in time. And while the pathogens are evolving, the pinot noir is not,\" says Myles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Andy Walker says there's plenty of genetic diversity out there for breeding, if you wanted to make today's varieties more heat tolerant or drought resistant. But there's a very big problem. Once your breed your pinot noir with something else, you can't call it pinot noir anymore.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The last decision that hardest. Can we market this variety? We know it produces exceptional wine. We know the quality is better. But the next step is can we actually market it,\" says Walker.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's a deal breaker for many vineyards, who think consumers won't buy varieties they don't recognize. Walker says looking ahead to climate change, there are already varieties out there today from Italy and Spain that would do well in a warmer California. \"We could produce Barbera instead, or Negroamaro or Nero d'Avola from southern Italy and we'd be far better ahead.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These lush reds are popular in Italy but not so well known to Californians. Walker says it'll come down to marketing. \"I don't think it's the consumer that's gonna make the shift. They have to be directed.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think it's really a pull from consumers,\" says Nick Dokoozlian, a Vice President at \u003ca href=\"http://gallo.com/\">E & J Gallo Winery\u003c/a>, the largest family-owned winery in the US. \"In most cases, we're responding to consumer demand for a cultivar.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dokoozlian says Gallo has been testing new wine varieties throughout its vineyards and has found some promising grapes. \"The problem is we can't necessarily sell those varieties. Consumers aren't aware of them. The marketing aspect of climate change and the adaptation to climate change, really, the hurdles on the marketing side are much, much more significant.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since vineyards can last up to 30 years, he says switching varieties is a major financial gamble. \"The wine business is an extremely capital intensive business. The financial risk of planting the wrong variety in the wrong place is pretty significant.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, given the temperature and water supply changes projected for California, Dokoozlian sees the market shifting eventually. \"I'm looking forward to having world-class California Nero d'Avola soon.\"\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/quest/22785/heat-is-on-for-california-wines","authors":["239"],"series":["quest_13295"],"categories":["quest_4","quest_6","quest_9"],"tags":["quest_252","quest_9990","quest_13195","quest_621","quest_1197","quest_9989","quest_1914","quest_13203","quest_9991","quest_2220","quest_13","quest_2727","quest_3022","quest_3171"],"collections":["quest_3354"],"featImg":"quest_22837","label":"source_quest_22785"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? 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You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn","officialWebsiteLink":"/mindshift/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"2"},"link":"/podcasts/mindshift","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/mindshift-podcast/id1078765985","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/464615685/mind-shift-podcast","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/0MxSpNYZKNprFLCl7eEtyx"}},"morning-edition":{"id":"morning-edition","title":"Morning Edition","info":"\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. 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